On the day I arrived to Philadelphia, the city was hit by a heat wave in the morning, by a horrible thunderstorm in the evening, and – a cherry on top of the cake – it was the first day of Democratic National Convention 2016. How is my timing?
Despite the crowds overflowing the streets, journalists on every corner, the heavy rain that made me hide in City Hall fearing for my well-being, I had great two days in the city. Not only did I get to see Philly, but I also had fun trying to get into the frame of a camera man waving from behind the reporter like an idiot; watching a protest against literally everything – racial discrimination, immigrants’ deportation, Hilary Clinton, animal cruelty – all in one tiny square; and spotting a BMW with a number plate that said “celebrity”. I tried to convince the driver to tell me who is that poor humble celebrity hiding inside, but had no success.
The itinerary for 2 days in Philly was packed to the brim, but that’s how I prefer it when I have little time in a new destination. I also have to mention that I love walking, and it’s my preferred way of getting from one attraction to another when I travel. But you are free to use public transport or Uber if you follow my plan. Here’s how you can spend 48 hours in Philadelphia!
Have Breakfast at Sabrina’s Café
This locally owned chain of cafes is famous for their all-day breakfast and brunch. They have four cafes around the city. To make the most of your first day in Philly go to their Art Museum location and try one of Sabrina’s signature breakfast items like stuffed challah French toast. It’s delicious, flavorful and also bigger than my head. We tackled it with full force of 5 family members and won! If I were to be left one-on-one with this monster, I would be defeated, no doubt.
Address: 1804 Callowhill St., Philadelphia
Marvel at Rodin’s Sculptures
Only 7 minutes-walk away from Sabrina’s café is Rodin museum housing one of the most comprehensive collections of Rodin’s artworks outside of Paris. I loved the cozy feel of this “intimately scaled museum” as it’s described on the official website. The museum is surrounded by a French garden with Rodin’s sculptures that is free for public year-round.
Address: 2151 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy, Philadelphia
Cost: admission to the Rodin Museum is Pay What You Wish; the garden is free year-round.
Get the Full Rocky Experience
Walk for another 9 minutes towards Philadelphia Museum of Art, find the Rocky statue at the bottom of the museum stairs and take a picture. There’s usually a short line to the statue, but you won’t wait for more than 5 minutes.
Now the fun part begins. You have to turn on “Gonna fly now” on your phone as loud as possible (download beforehand if you need to!) and run up the stairs with determined expression on your face. Then take another picture Rocky-style facing the city with your hands triumphantly in the air.
Since you are right in front of the art museum, you might want to check it out. But with only 2 days in the city, I didn’t have the time and didn’t include it in the plan.
Address: 2600 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy, Philadelphia
Visit Eastern State Penitentiary
The walk from Rocky steps will take you 12 minutes. Eastern State Penitentiary is considered to be the world’s first true penitentiary with revolutionary system of incarceration that encouraged separate confinement. The system later became a model for over 300 other prisons worldwide. Some notorious criminals like Al Capone and bank robber Willie Sutton were held inside.
To say this place is creepy and scary is to say nothing. The long empty corridors and bare walls with pictures of prisoners give you chills. And Steve Buscemi’s voice on the audio guide doesn’t help either. To feel the atmosphere of the penitentiary check out some amazing pictures here and the history of the place here.
Address: 2027 Fairmount Ave, Philadelphia
Cost: $14 for adults
Enjoy Well-Deserved Dinner
After the tour I wondered around the city in no particular direction and ended up having dinner at Pat’s King of Steaks, which is an hour away. If you are not as crazy about walking as I am, you can have dinner at London Grill. It’s only 3 minutes-walk away from the penitentiary and serves new American fare. There’s also OCF coffee house nearby, if you prefer a cup of coffee and a quick snack. Both of the places were recommended to me by a travel blogger Stephanie Craig of GoThreeTwentyFour who lives in Philadelphia.
Pat’s King of Steaks: 1237 E Passyunk Ave, Philadelphia
London Grill: 2301 Fairmount Ave, Philadelphia
OCF Coffee House. Address: 2100 Fairmount Ave, Philadelphia
Today we are going to explore the most iconic sites of Philadelphia: Independence Hall and Liberty Bell, so there might be a little bit of waiting in lines and maybe even elbowing your way through the crowd. But it really isn’t that bad if you plan ahead.
Visit Independence Hall
Let’s admit it, one of the main reasons you come to Philadelphia for the first time is to see the birth place of Declaration of Independence and Constitution.
You can get the tickets for free in the nearby Independence Visitor Center. But they are limited and distributed on the first-come, first-served basis. To secure your spot you can book the tickets online for $1.50 per person and pick them up at the Independence Visitor Center before the tour. All tours are guided and timed.
Address: 520 Chestnut St, Philadelphia
Cost: free if you pick up the tickets before the tour at Visitor Center, $1.50 if you reserve tickets online beforehand.
If you didn’t have breakfast at the hotel or Airbnb where you are staying, try out Knead Bagels that is located 6 minutes-walk away from Independence Hall.
Knead Bagels: 725 Walnut Street, Philadelphia
Visit the Liberty Bell Center
Another must-see landmark of Philadelphia, the Liberty Bell, is located across the road from the Independence Hall. It will take you no more than 1 minute to get there. Admission is free and tickets are not required.
Address: 6th St & Market St, Philadelphia
Have Lunch at the Reading Terminal Market
Walk 15 minutes to the Reading Terminal Market that will provide you with immense amount of lunch options: from seafood to hoagies to Indian curries. Take your time to walk around and try out samples. But if you need recommendations, Kamal’s Middle Eastern Specialties makes amazing falafel, Carmen’s has delicious cheesesteaks approved by President Barack Obama himself, and Termini Bros has mind-blowing ricotta-cheese cannoli (the chocolate one was a bit underwhelming, though).
Address: 51 N 12th St, Philadelphia
Walk Around the City Hall
Walk 6 minutes to the gorgeous Philadelphia City Hall, then have a little rest at the Dilworth Park, located right at the foot of the City Hall. It has a Great Lawn, computer-programmed fountains and a picture-perfect Love Sculpture.
Address: 1401 John F Kennedy Blvd, Philadelphia
See the Wanamaker Organ
The largest playable organ in the world is located in the Wanamaker Building, literally two minutes away from the City Hall. You need to go inside Macy’s and walk all the way to the back to see it.
Address: I can’t find the official address of the building. Search for the Wanamaker Building in Google maps and it will come up.
Try Out Big Gay Ice Cream
You can take Uber or public transport to get to Big Gay Ice Cream or you can also walk there, it will take 30 minutes. I am not as crazy as to ask you to take a taxi just for the sake of ice cream: this awesome ice cream shop is located right next to Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens and that’s the next stop on our itinerary.
First of all, I couldn’t miss a café with such a catchy name. I know it’s temping, but don’t ask the counterperson what’s so gay about this ice cream and whether eating it is going to make you gay. Apparently, they get asked these questions a lot, so the answer is printed on the menu. Second, ice cream is good. I’ve tried the affo’gay’to – their own version of Italian affogato – great refreshment for a hot summer day.
Address: 1351 South St., (between Broad Street & Juniper Street)
Explore Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens
Simply, it’s an outdoor art gallery occupying half a block on South Street in Philly. The space is created using non-traditional materials like glass bottles, mirrors, found objects, toys, bicycle wheels and what not.
I loved the installation, but what’s even more amazing is the story behind it. The artist Isaiah Zagar along with other activists turned the neighborhood into artistic haven and helped to stop construction of a highway that would have eliminated South Street. Initially he used several empty lots to start this project.
In 2002 the Boston-based owner (who, apparently, had no idea that his land is being used) decided to sell the land, but was confronted by community that was against destroying the art-project. There was a two-year legal battle. And guess what? The owner lost! Moral of the story: if you have property, don’t leave it unattended.
Apart from outdoor gallery, there’s also a small indoor museum featuring modern art works. My favorite part, though, was the restroom inside the museum!
Address: 1914, 1020 South St, Philadelphia
Cost: $10 for adults
Finish the Day With a Hearty Dinner
After Magic Gardens I headed to my Airbnb apartment and cooked a dinner myself. But if you are looking for a place to eat out, you can try a cheesesteak at George’s sandwich shop or Ishkabible’s, both within 10 minutes-walk from Magic Gardens. You can also check out this list of restaurants on South Street, recommended by Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens.
George’s sandwich shop: 900 S 9th St, Philadelphia
Ishkabibble’s: 337 South St, Philadelphia, PA 19147
Important tip: make sure neither of the days falls on Tuesday, both Rodin museum and Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens are closed on Tuesdays.
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AUTHOR: YULIA DYUKOVA
Yulia is a Russian food and travel blogger who found home first in Sri Lanka for 3 years, then in Brazil for a year and is currently based in Austin, Texas. She is the kind of person who starts a research of the new country by googling “what to eat in…” instead of “what to visit in…” Yulia is a self-proclaimed “food nerd” who will spend hours reading on the origins of pecan pie before trying it and who doesn’t consider waiting in line of 50 people to get a cronut a waste of time. She finds it hard to keep her delicious findings to herself and that is the reason why this blog exists.