Kandy Beyond the Temple of the Tooth Relic

If I come across one more blog post that tells me to walk around the city lake as one of the top things to do in Kandy, I’ll lose it, I swear. The lake is all right, but you’ll pass it at least ten times a day anyways since it’s located right in the heart of the city, next to the Temple of the Tooth Relic. 

Sri Dalada Maligawa, as it’s referred to by the locals, is the main attraction in Kandy. So much so that buses with tourists arrive to Kandy with a sole purpose to visit the temple. Way to explore the last royal capital of Sri Lanka! 

I might be all sarcastic now, but I’ll admit I did the same mistake. On my first two trips to Kandy, the Temple of the Tooth and the aforementioned lake were the only places I visited. Not surprisingly, I didn’t fall head over heels in love with Kandy. The temple, although grand and beautiful, is a crowded place with a commercial rather than spiritual feel to it. I always find it odd to pay an entrance fee at the churches and temples, and Sri Dalada Maligawa features a proper ticket booth on the premises. 

I am not saying all this to discourage you from visiting the temple. I personally think the temple is a must. Just like Eiffel Tower in Paris or Red Square in Moscow, you have to visit it at least once, no matter how many tourists are in line to the ticket booth. Just don’t stop there, Kandy offers a lot more amazing things to do.

Things to Do in Kandy Beyond the Temple of the Tooth Relic

hiking in knuckles mountain range

Hiking in the Knuckles Mountain Range

When it comes to hiking and exploring mountains in Sri Lanka, Nuwara Eliya and Ella come to mind first. Not many travelers realize that Kandy can serve as a comfortable base if you want to see the beautiful Knuckles Mountain Range. 

things to do in Kandy knuckles sri lanka

knuckles mountain range sri lanka
Met furry friends during hiking in Knuckles

The name of the range, assigned by the first British explorers, comes from its resemblance to the knuckles of a clenched fist when viewed from certain locations in Kandy. The locals call the it Dumbara Kanduvetiya, meaning Misty Mountain Range.

Exploring Knuckles on your own is not a great idea. Unlike national parks and forests in developed countries, the parks in Sri Lanka are not always tourist-friendly. There are no signs pointing you in the right direction, no clear paths, and no-one for miles and miles around to ask help from.

kandy sri lanka things to do
Walking through tea plantations on our way down the trek in Knuckles mountain range

If you are traveling with a tourist agency, ask them to find a guide who can take you around. The hike can be as long as you want it to be. I chose a one day hike up and down, but it is possible to do a multi-day hike and stay overnight in the mountains. 

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My guide Sudesh was the brother of my husband’s best friend because that’s how you do it in Sri Lanka. There’s always a cousin of your grandfather’s neighbor or an auntie of your classmate’s mother who can help solve a problem. The guide usually picks you up from the hotel early in the morning, hikes the whole day with you, and takes you back to the hotel. If your guide is as awesome as Sudesh, he’ll also find a good place for breakfast and lunch in a nearby village. 

Hanthana mountain range
On top of the world! Kandy is a perfect base for hiking in Hanthana mountain range

Hiking in Hanthana Mountain Range

Another great place for hiking if you are in Kandy is Hanthana Mountain Range that consists of seven peaks with the highest peak, Uura Kanda, reaching 3800 ft. The drive to the base of Hanthana is shorter than to Knuckles and took us only thirty minutes. 

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My guide Sudesh during our hike in Hanthana mountain range

hanthana

Given that there are seven peaks and multiple treks, the guide should help you choose a suitable option. We went for a relatively easy three-hour trek that took us through gorgeous sun-lit tea plantations, onto a summit with magnificent views and back through the jungle where we had to jump over a snake sleeping on the narrow path we took. Another reason you require a guide! 

lankathilaka temple kandy
Lankathilaka temple built on a uneven rock surface in the XIV century

Lankathilaka Temple

Lankathilaka Temple, as well as the two temples I mention below, are located outside of the city of Kandy, not too far from one another. In comparison with the Temple of the Tooth Relic, they give a better understanding of what Buddhist temples in Sri Lanka feel like. There are few tourists and the entrance to each of the temples is only 300 Rs, as opposed to 1500 Rs at Sri Dalada Maligawa. 

Out of the three, Lankathilaka was my personal favorite. This ancient temple built in the XIV century by King Bhuvanekabahu IV, is located in Udunuwara, about thirty-minutes-drive from Kandy city.

The temple was built upon an uneven rock surface, named Panhalgala. Along with Embekke Temple, Lankathilaka is considered one of the most architecturally advanced buildings of Gampola Kingdom era.

what to do in kandy
The Drummers’ Hall at Embekke Devalaya featuring exquisite woodcarving

Embekke Temple

The most unusual Buddhist temple I have come across in Sri Lanka, Embekke Devalaya boasts woodcarving on its pillars, doors, beams, and rafters. While most of Sri Lankan temples are built of stone or brick, Embekke with its ornate wooden pillars reminded me of my home, Russia, where the tradition of wood carving dates centuries back.

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embekke kandy what to see in kandy sri lanka

embekke devalaya

Embekke was built in the XIV century by King Vikramabahu III during Gampola Era and features three sections: Sanctum of Garagha, Dancing Hall, and the Drummers’ Hall. The latter is where you find the pillars. 

gadaladeniya kandy
Inside Gadaladeniya temple near Kandy

Gadaladeniya Temple

Gadaladeniya Temple is located a short drive away from Lankathilaka Temple and was built around the same time, in 1344, by King Bhuvanekabahu IV. It is believed that the temple used to be named Dharma Kirthi Viharaya after the founding monk and was designed by an architect from India which is why the design is distinctly South Indian.

things to do in kandy sri lanka

All three temples (Lankathilaka, Embekke, and Gadaladeniya) are located away from Kandy city, but not too far from each other. It’s best to hire a tuk-tuk for three-four hours to cover all three temples in one go. I paid approximately 3000 Rs for a tuk-tuk from the hotel to all three temples and back.

bahirawakanda kandy
88 ft tall Buddha statue at Bahirawakanda temple in Kandy

Bahirawakanda Temple

If you don’t want to go outside of the city, there’s another, less crowded temple in Kandy – Bahirawakanda Viharaya. You’ll see the large Buddha statue set on top of a hill from almost anywhere in Kandy city center. The Buddha statue is 88 feet tall and is one of the tallest in Sri Lanka. This temple is relatively new, built in 1970’s.

You can get on top of the hill on foot if you are in good physical shape. The road up is not long, but rather steep and left me breathless by the end. Luckily, there’s a small booth selling king coconuts right in front of the temple. You can also take a tuk-tuk up, a much easier and less sweaty option. 

Other Things to Do in Kandy

On my last trip I spent three days in Kandy and did all of the above. I’d definitely come back to do more hiking in the mountains, visit Royal Botanical Gardens, and see the premises of Peradaniya University. 

Where to Eat in Kandy

hela bojun hala

Hela Bojun — the place I most recommend in Kandy if you want to try authentic local food. This local chain of food courts offers traditional dishes at extremely low cost. The chain is a project of the Department of Agriculture started with the goal of promoting local produce and empowering women in rural areas. 

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Each woman who sells her food at this open court is provided with necessary training, and the rent of space comes to only about 1000 Rs per month. The food is fresh, cooked from scratch every morning, and delicious. The crowd is mostly locals which is always a good sign.

The Empire Cafe — a touristy spot right next to the Temple of the Tooth Relic with funky design and a choice of Sri Lankan and Western dishes.

Slightly Chilled — a perfect dinner spot with a good view of Kandy City, cocktails and diverse menu with Western, Sri Lankan, and Chinese influence. The place gets really crowded and loud at night. 

Natural Coffee — a coffee shop next to the Temple of the Tooth serving good locally grown coffee. Have a cup of Joe or grab a bag of beans here as a souvenir. 

Where to Stay in Kandy

Helga’s Folly 

helga's folly

Staying at Helga’s Folly is an experience in itself. This is not a place to just spend a night, you have to plan at least three-four hours for exploring this insane, trippy, out-of-this-world home. Covered with paintings, murals, and antiques, Helga’s Folly doesn’t provide much rest for eyes, but oh my! what an incredible space it is! I have to say, it’s not for everyone. If “quirky” is your word, then you’ll love it. 

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Have you been to Kandy? What else would you recommend to do in Kandy beside the Temple of the Tooth Relic?

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AUTHOR: YULIA DYUKOVA
Yulia is a Russian food and travel blogger who found home first in Sri Lanka for 3 years, then in Brazil for a year and is currently based in Austin, Texas. She is the kind of person who starts a research of the new country by googling “what to eat in…” instead of “what to visit in…” Yulia is a self-proclaimed “food nerd” who will spend hours reading on the origins of pecan pie before trying it and who doesn’t consider waiting in line of 50 people to get a cronut a waste of time. She finds it hard to keep her delicious findings to herself and that is the reason why this blog exists.

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