My first trip to Sri Lanka was a revelation in all possible meanings. I knew close to nothing about the country, its history, its people and its food upon arrival. So I had to learn everything the hard way: through unparalleled personal experience.
Thus after taking my first trip to the market in order to buy some exotic fruits I ended up throwing away an unripe avocado that I peeled and tried to bite into as if it was an apple. In my defense: I had never had avocados before and had no idea how it should be eaten.
I also realized that some of my beliefs were complete nonsense. I imagined that after a couple of months of fresh fruits and veggies diet (it’s tropical island we are talking about, right?) I will lose some weight. In reality as soon as I arrived I found myself following the rice and curry diet that resulted in me gaining 6 kilos in under 2 months.
And I won’t even mention how many times I cried trying to finish my lunch or dinner, because you see, saying “less spicy, please” seems to work only every 3rd time in Sri Lanka. So these are my tips on what to expect when you are packing your bags to visit my beloved little island in Indian Ocean.
No day is complete without rice and curry
First things first. Coming from Russia where Asian food is extremely unpopular my only definition of curry was a spice blend. So in the first days I found myself very confused when asked if I want to have rice and curry. For those of you who haven’t traveled to Asia and don’t frequent Indian restaurants: curry is a name for most of the dishes served along with rice that are cooked with spices (including chili, curry powder and curry leaves) and very often in gravy.
Rice and curry is the king of Sri Lankan food and you are very likely to eat it every day. It might seem boring to have the same dish on a daily basis until you realize there are hundreds of curry varieties: chicken, fish, shrimp, carrot, beetroot or pumpkin – you name it. No less than 3 varieties will be served with rice but the number can go up to 7-8. Mind you, they normally don’t repeat day in and day out.
The tricky part here is that you can’t have curries without rice because of gravy and spiciness, so you end up eating plenty of carbs. If you are watching your waist line – be careful. Rice and curry is generally prepared for lunch but it’s not uncommon to have it for dinner and in especially rare and weird occasions for breakfast. Don’t be surprised.
All things spicy
This is the first thing everybody warns you about. Sri Lankan food is spicy as hell. So if you are not used to it and would like to have your lunch without tears and drama ask for “no spices”. Talking from my own experience: saying “less spicy” or “mildly spicy” does not work. At all. Believe me, Sri Lankan “no spices” will be spicy enough for you. If you are completely intolerant to spicy food, your trip to this country might be quite a challenge since even “no spices” doesn’t guarantee some chili won’t magically find its way into your plate.
Spices are not only used to make curries. I was surprised to find out that slices of pineapples and mangoes spiced with chili make a great snack. I personally find it odd to have sweet fruits mixed with spices, but Sri Lankans just love it! You can use many local fruits to prepare achcharu as it’s called here. Achcharu is usually sold at the water front, markets or roadside kiosks.
Forget about fresh veggies
Although Sri Lankans do use a lot of vegetables in their kitchen it is mostly served as curry which normally translates to fatty (because of coconut milk). Fresh salads and grilled vegetables are quite hard to find. A leafy salad dressed with lime juice can be served as a side along with rice and curries but this is as far as it goes: vegetables are never a main dish.
By the way, soup is another thing that is hugely unpopular in Sri Lanka. For a girl from Russia who normally eats soup on a daily basis that was hard to accept.
Fresh fruits for dessert? Yes, please!
Delicious perfectly ripe fruits all year round – is a dream come true. And they are so cheap! Mangoes, pineapples, passion fruits, papaya and 10 different varieties of bananas to start with. Jambu, jackfruit, guava, rambutan, woodapple and mangostin if you want to try something really unique.
Fresh fruits are commonly served at hotels for breakfast but funny enough, most of Sri Lankans wouldn’t eat a fresh fruit platter in the morning. They might have bananas with kiribath (rice cooked in coconut milk) or a childhood favorite – bread with butter and banana, but never a fruit platter or yogurt with fruits which is so common in the West. Fruits are usually served as dessert after lunch or dinner.
Snacks are sooo good but not so healthy
Granola bars? Hummus and veggie sticks? Nuts? Nah-ah! Pastries! The best snacks in Sri Lanka are so-called “short eats”: deep fried cutlets and patties, fish buns, roti (coconut flat breads) and samosas. A lot of carbs, a lot of fat, a lot of spices – no wonder they are delicious! Also no wonder I gained 6 kilos in the first 2 months in Sri Lanka: rice and curry for lunch and deep fried patties for snacks did their job.
The rules of having tea
Sri Lanka, or as it was formally called Ceylon, is a tea country. So have as much tea as you can while you are on the island, just know the rules! The common way to have tea here is with milk and lots of sugar. So if you ask for “tea” you will get milk tea by default. If you don’t want milk you need to ask for “plain tea”.
If you order tea at a hotel, it is usually served in a tea pot with milk and sugar on side. But if you are having tea from a small café, a shop or at somebody’s house, tea is mixed with milk and sugar in a big pot and then served to everybody.
Another thing that you should be prepared for is that amount of sugar in your tea is directly-proportional to how happy the host is to see you in his house. And given that Sri Lankan people are very hospitable your tea is likely to cause a “sugar shock” as I refer to it. It’s very – I can’t stress it enough – very sweet!
This should give you a first look into Sri Lankan food and prepare you for some surprises but this is definitely not all I have to say. After all, 3 years of life on the island were full of gastronomic discoveries so more updates are coming.
AUTHOR: YULIA DYUKOVA
Yulia is a Russian food and travel blogger who found home first in Sri Lanka for 3 years, then in Brazil for a year and is currently based in Austin, Texas. She is the kind of person who starts a research of the new country by googling “what to eat in…” instead of “what to visit in…” Yulia is a self-proclaimed “food nerd” who will spend hours reading on the origins of pecan pie before trying it and who doesn’t consider waiting in line of 50 people to get a cronut a waste of time. She finds it hard to keep her delicious findings to herself and that is the reason why this blog exists.